Micro-irrigation

This year we knew we would have to do something different with irrigation management.  Last year we struggled to make sprinkler systems work in the outdoor garden and the high-tunnel.  Given the extreme temperatures and lack of rain, evapo-transpiration rates were great enough that is was hard to keep up with water demand using a relatively conventional sprinkler (i-WOB nozzle on a 6' stand).  In the high tunnel, the same set-up created nonuniform patterns due to droplet contact with the plastic cover.  This led us to look into micro-irrigation.

Micro-irrigation can take several forms; individual emitters, emitter tubing, spray tip, rotors, and more.  It is help to determine what plant species will be grown, then study the growth habitat of that species.  Factors such as height, width, root system, radiant tolerance, and spacing requirements will help determine the proper system and emitter type to ensure a successful system.



Individual emitters were used on the windbreak.  That is because the trees and shrubs were spaced relatively far apart and spacing varied between 6'-8'.

 

Emitter Tubing


For the garden area, I researched emitter tubing and determined that this would be the best fit for that setting.  Emitter tubing as built-in emitters into the wall of the tubing at set intervals.  It also delivers a designed rate of water out of each emitter.  I went with a tubing that has an emitter spacing of 12 inches and is designed to allow 1 gallon of water per hour to flow through the emitter. 

Two zones were created to facilitate the two different management zones; outdoor and high tunnel. 

Three main benefits:
1) Water savings- By accurately placing the water at the base of the plant, maximum water is available for root uptake.
2) Pest and weed management- Reduced pest and weed pressures from no longer watering between the rows.  This should greatly reduce competition for the vegetables and time spent weeding.
3) Ease of use!

  Our entire garden was planted with seed this year, rather than using transplants.  I'm attempting to record the hours of irrigation operation in order to get a better handle on water use and savings.  For germination, I run each zone for about one hour every other day.  As the plants mature, I plan to run the system less often, but for longer periods; possibly 4 hours each zone twice a week.  This will help establish a healthy and greater root system by moving the water down deeper into the soil profile.  Actual irrigation will be determined by a combination of the feel method and appearance of plant vigor.

Windbreaks

It's that time of year again; Spring!  What a wonderful time.  We are definitely excited about the warmer weather and watching everything green up.  We actually have received a little moisture lately and are sitting a lot better than this same time last year. 

With spring comes wind.  This year, we are planting a windbreak to  provide a little more protection from the elements.  You have probably heard the saying about timing of planting a tree; "the best time was 20 years ago, the second best time is now".

The windbreak actually contains quite a variety of shrubs.  Some of the shrubs are not technically valued for their windbreak potential as much as for their dual role for wildlife, or pollinator, habitat.  Being Organic, the flowering shrubs are used to attract beneficial insects to the area and also lure other pests away from the vegetable garden area. 

Types of shrubs planted include:  Eastern Red Cedar, Rocky Mountain Juniper, Skunkbush Sumac, Sand cherry, Lilac, and Chokecherry.

Along with the trees, we also included the practice of adding a weed barrier and microirrigation.  I debated whether I needed weed barrier since there was a good grass stand present?  I may have been able to get by without it, but in the end, I figure I will not need to go out and pull weeds, or grasses, that may try to out compete the trees since grazing will not be taking place in the windbreak. 

Microirrigation is supplied by a 3/4" drip line.  The emitters used are rated at 2 gallons/hour and are placed one per tree. 

Rabbits can be quite a pest and do a lot of damage to the tender bark of young trees in a very short time.  Therefore, we placed rabbit guards around the deciduous shrubs.  Hoping the evergreens will not be affected.

Soil Health

Soil Health is a new spin on incorporating several agronomic and ecological principles to help ensure sustainable and productive systems.  Soil Health takes a holistic approach to managing natural systems and ensuring that processes and cycles mimic natural occurrences.  This will help ensure minimal inputs, sustainable output, increased resiliency, healthy and productive resources, and improved financial sustainability.

I recently went to a NRCS training on Soil Health.  Our instructor was Ray Archuleta from the NRCS East Technical Center.  He is very knowledgeable and enthusiastic about improving soil health.  He has several videos on Ray the Soil Guy which are great viewing. 

He asked us some basic questions, like "Why do we care about soil?"; and "What do we want from our soils?".  The bottom line is we expect a lot from our soils and we quickly came to a unified understanding of just how important healthy and functioning soils are.


A living root adds carbon and exudates which feed the soil microbes
and builds soil structure.



Top 4 management tips:

1. Minimize soil disturbance; i.e. plowing



2. Maximize diversity of crops in rotation

3. Have a living root in the soil as often as possible

4. Keep the soil covered with plants and plant residues

I look forward to applying these management tips not only in the High Tunnel, but also in our pasture setting with an improved rotation.



The soil has good cover, a living root, and diversity in type of crop;
 i.e. cool season grass to a warm season broad leaf.



Other great links:



North Dakota Zero Tillage Association

NRCS Soil Biology



Knocking down a cover crop with a roller crimper and no-till planting directly behind it in one operation.

  

Food Dialogues

USFRA – America’s Farmers and Ranchers – Leading constructive and pragmatic conversations about the future of food and agriculture